Choosing the correct Carbide Size
One sharpener is compatible with all four carbide sizes.
The carbide size required is determined by the chain pitch which is usually labeled on the chain saw bar near the motor. This number will be .404, 3/8, .325, or 3/8P
Large 7/32″ - 3/8″ pitch chain as well as .404″ pitch chain
Large 13/64″ – also for 3/8″ pitch, but slightly smaller. Recommended on 3/8″ Stihl chain.
Medium 3/16″ – .325″ pitch chain
Small 5/32″ – 3/8″ small Low Profile chain, Picco, and 1/4″ pitch
7/32″ = 5.5 mm
13/64″ = 5.0 mm
3/16″ = 4.8 mm
5/32″ = 4.0 mm
Made of tungsten carbide. Designed specifically for the Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener. Ask any machinist and they will tell you tungsten carbide is extremely tough and durable and will outlast any hardened steel file period. Because of its durability, it is difficult to claim an exact lifespan. However, much testing and customer feedback allows us to confidently claim a minimum of 40+ sharpenings. Users may very well exceed 100+ sharpenings with careful use by not binding the carbide cutter, by always spinning clockwise, and by following the Instructions and reading our Tips and Tricks.
It is recommended to sharpen the chain often instead of waiting until it is extremely dull. This will make sharpening even faster with a quick touch up while reducing wear on both the carbide cutter and the chain itself.
Carbide Wear
Carbides experience most wear the first time a chain is sharpened. This is due to the carbide not seating properly and binding in the hook of the chain. To avoid this, seat the carbide into the chain by leaving the side knobs loose on the sharpener. Sharpen each tooth of the chain very slightly. You will hear/feel a chatter as the carbide spins which will smooth out as the hook of the chain shapes to the contour of the carbide. This is only necessary the first time a chain is sharpened.
Level Sharpener
One of the most common mistakes users make when first using the sharpener is not leveling it correctly on the bar. This will cause the carbide to not fit correctly when sharpening the opposite side teeth. First, as the sharpener rocks on the carbide try to visually level the sharpener flat on the bar and tighten the side screws. Remove carbide, pull chain forward to the next opposite cutting tooth and try to insert carbide in the corresponding guide. If it doesn't fit, loosen the side screw directly across and move the sharpener up or down as needed to allow the carbide to be fully inserted.
Sharpen One Side At A Time
By sharpening every other tooth you don't have to fully remove the carbide from the guide. This is much faster and allows you to have two free hands to pull the chain forward to the next tooth. Additionally, some saws need the rear thumbscrew to be readjusted to sharpen the opposite side of the chain. This is to insure the same amount of material is removed see the next tip.
Even Length Cutting Teeth
Depending on the size of chainsaw, it may be required to sharpen all teeth on the right side before switching to the left side. This is due to smaller saws having a thinner bar which shifts the path of the carbide and moves the intersection point off center. To adjust for this offset, simply readjust or loosen the rear thumbscrew so that the chain is sharpened evenly. By first working the right side teeth and then switching to the left the rear thumbscrew should only need to be readjusted once.
Not Cutting Straight
Uneven cutting teeth is often the cause. If one side of the chain has longer cutting teeth they will take a bigger bite out of the wood than the shorter teeth. If the chain is cutting to the left that means the right teeth on the chain are longer, and vise versa. To correct, sharpen only the side with the longer teeth. If the bar has worn unevenly it will also cause the chain to not cut straight.
Chain Not Cutting
If the chain is sharp, but doesn't feel like it is cutting then the depth gauges or rakers need to be lowered. This is the "shark fin" shape directly in front of each cutting tooth. It's purpose is to limit how deep the cutting tooth dives into the wood. As the chain is sharpened not only the length, but also the height is shortened. Eventually these also need to be lowered. Using a flat file, about 2 stokes off the top of each depth gauge is all that is needed. Lowering the depth gauges too much will cause the cutting teeth to take too big of a bite and make the saw jam or worse jump.
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